The Science Behind Mycena
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Science-backed. Nature-rooted.
How we formulate
Mycena is built on three things: high-purity copper tripeptides, functional mushrooms, and biologically active ancillary compounds. Below is the evidence for each, and the certificate-of-analysis results for the copper peptides we use.
Want the full chemistry? The Ingredient Science Series at the end of this page goes deeper, with every reference.
What the certificates say
Our copper peptides are produced to our own specifications, and every lot comes with the manufacturer's certificate of analysis for identity, purity, and safety. Results from the certificates:
| Test | Specification | Result |
|---|---|---|
| GHK-Cu purity (HPLC) | ≥ 98.0% | 99.87% |
| GHK-Cu copper content | 8.0–16.0% | 13.74% |
| AHK-Cu purity (HPLC) | ≥ 95.0% | 98.14% |
| AHK-Cu copper content | 8.0–16.0% | 12.27% |
| Heavy metals (lead, arsenic, mercury, cadmium) | Within limits | Pass |
| Microbial (total plate count, yeast & mold) | Within limits | Pass |
| Identity (mass spec / molecular ion) | Conforms | Complies |
From the manufacturer's certificates of analysis: GHK-Cu lot analyzed July 2025, AHK-Cu lot analyzed December 2025. Our tremella and cordyceps extracts come with their suppliers' certificates of analysis too, and every new formula is challenge-tested for preservative efficacy.
The evidence behind our ingredients
Copper peptides — GHK-Cu & AHK-Cu
GHK-Cu (copper tripeptide-1) is one of the most-studied peptides in skin science. Research associates it with the signalling behind the skin's collagen and elastin — it influences lysyl oxidase, a copper-dependent enzyme involved in collagen and elastin cross-linking, and helps modulate matrix metalloproteinases. In controlled studies, topical GHK-Cu has been associated with increased collagen in a majority of volunteers, comparable to or greater than vitamin C and retinoic acid. AHK-Cu (copper tripeptide-3) is the copper peptide studied specifically in the context of hair and the scalp.
PubMed: Pickart & Margolina, Int J Mol Sci 2018 — PMID 29986520.
Read our full write-up on copper peptides →
Tremella (snow mushroom)
Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides are exceptional humectants. Their many hydroxyl and carboxyl groups bind water into a moisture-holding network; studies show they can retain moisture comparably to — or better than — hyaluronic acid at lower concentrations, and are associated with reduced transepidermal water loss and increased skin hydration.
PubMed: tremella fuciformis polysaccharides and transepidermal water loss — PMID 36091780.
Cordyceps
Cordyceps militaris is rich in cordycepin, polysaccharides, and adenosine — compounds studied for their antioxidant activity and their role in cellular energy. It's why we chose it for skin that looks bright and awake.
PubMed Central: Cordyceps militaris extracts, antioxidant activity — PMC9030010.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) has solid clinical evidence for supporting the skin barrier — it aids ceramide and free-fatty-acid synthesis — and for improving the appearance of tone, texture, and fine lines at cosmetic concentrations.
PubMed: Bissett et al., Dermatol Surg 2005 — PMID 16029679.
Supporting ingredients
- Sodium hyaluronate — a humectant that binds many times its weight in water for immediate, plumping hydration.
- Caffeine (Scalp Theory) — a familiar ingredient that leaves the scalp feeling fresh and invigorated.
- Succinic acid (Scalp Theory) — a gentle organic acid that helps keep the scalp feeling clean and balanced.
- Panthenol — pro-vitamin B5, a conditioning ingredient in all three serums.
- Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate — the ferment-derived preservative in all three serums, used instead of parabens or phenoxyethanol.
- Lactic acid — a trace that keeps each formula at its target pH.
The full ingredient list for each serum is on its product page.
The Ingredient Science Series
This page is the short version. Our long-form articles go deeper into the chemistry and biology, with full references. Each one first appeared on our X account.
Copper peptidesThe Molecular Architecture of GHK-Cu & AHK-CuFour commercial forms, one copper ion, and why a single methyl group sends AHK-Cu to the scalp.
Collagen biologyThe Signal and the SubstrateGHK-Cu is the signal. Glycine, vitamin C and copper are the raw materials skin builds collagen from.
DeliveryThe 500 Dalton RuleWhich ingredients can get into skin, which stay on the surface, and how to read a label with one number.
HydrationSodium Hyaluronate: The Salt That Holds WaterWhy our label says sodium hyaluronate, and how molecular weight decides where it works.
LightSunlight, Red Light and Your SkinWhat each band of sunlight does in skin, how red-light devices are thought to work, and why dose matters.
Our storyWho We AreSophia and Paul on N=1 research, growing mushrooms in Missouri, and why Mycena makes just three serums.
Ingredient guides
- What Is GHK-Cu? The Copper Peptide Behind Copper Theory
- AHK-Cu: The Copper Peptide for Scalp & Hair
- Tremella Mushroom for Skin
- Cordyceps for Skin: The Vitality Mushroom
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Mycena Skin products are cosmetics and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Ingredient research is provided for education and describes the ingredients, not claims about finished-product performance.